For thousands of years pearls have been worn by the rich and glamorous, and given as rare and expensive gifts. Traditionally worn by new brides, for thousands of years they have been a symbol of love, purity and perfection. Nowadays pearl jewellery is available to more people than ever before, and you no longer need to be royalty to afford it. Pearls of all shapes, sizes and colours are ‘cultured’ on farms around the world and with so many varieties to choose from any bride-to-be has no trouble finding the perfect pearls to match her wedding gown. In fact, there are so many different types of pearl that it’s not easy to know which to choose, so here are a few pointers of what to look out for:
Pearl type – There are two main types of pearl, saltwater and freshwater. Saltwater pearls are farmed in the sea, and are usually larger, rounder and clearer than their freshwater cousins. Because of this they are also often more expensive. Freshwater pearls are farmed in lakes and rivers, usually smaller and often less regular in shape, though they come in a large range of different colours.
Size – When buying pearls, size really does matter. The bigger the pearl, the more it will cost. Saltwater pearls are usually bigger than freshwater, and are more highly sought after.
Nacre – Pearls take a very long time to form inside an oyster shell. When an irritant gets into the shell the oyster produces layers of nacre, which gradually build up forming the pearl. The thicker the coating of nacre, the more durable the pearl will be. Some cultured saltwater pearls are made with a ‘beaded’ large nucleus used to speed up the process and keep the pearls as round as possible. Most freshwater pearls and all natural pearls are formed entirely of nacre, which accounts for their more irregular shape.
Luster – No pearl is as smooth and shiny as a mirror but they should have a certain reflective quality to them, called the lustre. Pearls with this shimmery effect on the surface are the most desired.
Colour – The natural colours of pearls are various shades of white, pink and lilac although you can now get cultured pearls dyed in almost any colour. A pearl necklace made of matching naturally-coloured pearls will cost more than dyed ones, as it can take a long time to collect enough matching pearls for a whole string.
Shape – When we think of pearls, we usually imagine that they are all perfectly round and shiny. In reality this is rare, and these round pearls are very expensive as they are hugely sought after. Small cultured pearls tend to be more rounded and some larger ones are formed around a bead to help the shape develop. Irregularly shaped pearls are still used to make unique jewellery and pendants.
Matching – It can be difficult to find enough pearls of the same size, shape and colour to make a whole necklace, so a string of regular pearls will cost more as it is rarer and more desirable.